turnip contempt

The turnip was a staple in the diet of prehistoric people, and it has continued to exist as an important and vital crop throughout the world to this day. Protean by nature, the root exists in many forms-from bulbous and white, cylindrical and purple, to tapered and black. The turnip’s flesh is tastiest when it is grown in cool conditions, as hot weather forces rank top growth and makes the root woody. Turnips are bursting with Vitamin A, B2, C, E and many minerals. The turnip is also the only vegetable (besides the cabbage) that contains trace amounts of arsenic, which, in minute amounts, assists the healthy functioning of the body.

Contempt for turnips as a lowly vegetable reaches far back in history. When the Aryans took over India they forbade their own people to “demean their reputation” by partaking of the foods of the native people. They were ordered to “avoid the turnips, beans, garlic, onions, mushrooms”. Later it became popular to pelt unpopular persons with turnips (tomatoes being as yet unavailable) which would seem to indicate scant regard for the turnip, though it was perhaps more esteemed than the target. The French word for turnip “navet” is even used to describe an artistic flop, much in the way we might coin a bad play a “lemon” or a “turkey”. Perhaps the primary reason that the turnip has been looked down upon is because it has often been seen as a food of the poor. It is usually inexpensive, can grow in harsh, ungrateful soils, ripens quickly and keeps well. Though the vegetable is delicious and nutritious, its perceived societal value has suffered from classist discrimination. Voltaire referred to the English as “a hardy race that considers plain boiled turnips to be food.”

Around 300 BC Roman consul and war hero Curius Dentatus, while roasting turnips over a fire, was approached by envoys of his Samnite enemy. They offered him a large amount of gold to defect to their side, but “he preferred to attend to his turnips” the story goes. In this moral tale the turnip is presented as simple rustic wholesome food; obviously a famous person who was content with merely a dinner of roasted* turnips would not be tempted by glittering riches.

Turnips spread throughout Asia, were taken from China to Japan in 700 AD. Jacque Cartier brought turnips to Canada in 1540 and French Jesuit missionaries carried them south to New York, and they became firmly rooted in the diets of Native American people. Turnips are available year round, though they are at their peak from May to October. They are enjoyed both for their roots and their zesty greens. Avoid turnips that look faded or heavily calloused or smell strongly. Smaller, tender young turnips do not require peeling, while skinning larger turnips is advised. The greens are wonderful stir-fried, steamed or raw in salad. Then there is the simple cooking suggestion from an account of the court of Richard II in 1390:

“Take rapes[turnips], caboches[cabbages] ypaired and icorne[cut] cast all this therinne. Whan they buth are boiled, cast there to peeres and parboile hem wele.”(from McGee, Harold, On Food and Cooking, the Science and Lore of the Kitchen)

Cook the vegetables in the butter in a covered pan over a low heat for 10 minutes. Shake the pan occasionally, or stir the vegetables about, as they should not brown. Add the flour, stir again, and then moisten gradually with enough stock to cover the vegetables easily. Season and simmer until the vegetables are tender, from 20-30 minutes. Blend or sieve the soup, adding the remaining stock until it is an agreeable consistency. Return the soup to the pan and reheat gently. Mix the yolks and cream together and gradually stir them into the soup, stirring well over a low heat. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with bread croutons.